Gosh, in 2018 I will have been a surf photographer for 40 years! I have seen the industry change from a band of rebel youths to a booming industry. I travel the world with the greatest surfers in the world and see my photos published around the world… all on someone else’s dime! I look at photos from young photographers around the world and I wonder how I’m still making a living. I feel so blessed to still be working with the best on the front lines. I just love what I do. I have not missed a single year on the North Shore [Oahu, Hawaii]. This last year I’ve been through a lot of personal challenges and have at times merely gone through the motions of shooting, not really feeling that intensity and drive. But I feel alive again. I’m headed into my 40th year with the excitement of a 20-year-old. I can’t wait to see where that motivation takes me. Hopefully, my best shot is right around the corner.
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